By HOWARD G. GOLDBERG
Adam Suprenant thinks big, very big, when making Osprey’s Dominion’s top wine, a pricey red blend named Flight. His opulent 2000, 2001, 2002, 2005 and 2006 Flights, which I recently tasted side by side, rank as some of Long Island’s choicest blends of the decade so far.
They were made in Peconic in the rich style popularized by the influential wine critic Robert M. Parker Jr.
Except for the 2006, to be released in December, all have won gold medals in contests. The 2001 took a double gold in the 2005 New York Wine and Food Classic and the 2005 won a double gold in 2008’s Classic, indicating that every judge on a panel awarded the wine a gold.
Osprey’s Dominion calls the Flights Meritage wines, meaning they were made from Bordeaux grapes. Stylistically, they more nearly resemble succulent Napa and Australian blends.
All the wines are at least 60 percent merlot and at least 20 percent cabernet sauvignon. Most have a third component of either cabernet franc or petit verdot.
The terrific 2000 Flight ($49), with a tarry aroma, is virtually a berry compote dominated by cassis. The spicy 2001 ($49), opening with a smoky bouquet, has a plummy, almost confectionery flavor loaded with subtleties.
The wonderful 2002 ($49) is graceful, round and almost candied, with notes of chocolate, anise and herbs. The delicious 2005 ($35), with hints of a graphite scent, is grapey, peppy and smooth. The spirited 2006 ($35), a swirl of berrylike flavors, offers a long aftertaste.
Mr. Suprenant produced a 2007 — a “slam-dunk” from an outstanding harvest, he said — that is to be bottled in January, and a 2008 test blend, from a vintage beset by mercurial weather, that ultimately may or may not reach Flight status.